Why does black plastic trim turn grey?
Unpainted plastic trim turns grey because UV light breaks down the plastic at the surface and the carbon black pigment and UV stabilisers blended into it are gradually lost — what you are looking at is a thin layer of degraded, chalky plastic sitting on top of the good material underneath.
That is why wiping it does nothing. The grey is not dirt on the trim, it is the trim. Run a finger across badly faded cladding and it leaves a dull chalky mark on your skin — that is oxidised plastic coming off.
Southern California is about the worst case for it. Textured plastic has far more surface area than smooth paint, and more than 260 days of direct sun a year works on every bit of it. Horizontal and south-facing pieces always go first.
What is the difference between a trim dressing and trim restoration?
A dressing is a product that sits on top of the plastic and darkens it temporarily, and it washes off. Restoration means cleaning the oxidised layer off the plastic first and then bonding a coating to the fresh surface, so the colour is held in place rather than painted on.
Most quick-detail trim shine is a silicone dressing. It looks excellent on collection day, it streaks down the paint in the first rain, and it is gone inside a few washes — which is exactly why the trim always looks faded again a month later.
We clean the degraded layer back, then coat the plastic with NanoPro® Nano Flex Plastic and Rubber, which bonds to the surface instead of resting on it. It is the same product used on trim in our coating packages.
Can faded trim always be brought back to black?
No. Trim that is lightly to moderately oxidised comes back to a deep factory black, but plastic that has degraded all the way through — chalky, rough, with the texture breaking down — cannot be restored and needs replacing.
The rough test: wet the trim with water. Whatever colour it goes wet is roughly the colour restoration will hold it at. If it comes up deep black when wet, it will restore well. If it still looks grey and patchy wet, the plastic itself is spent.
We will tell you which pieces will come back and which will not before you book. On older vehicles it is common for most of the trim to restore beautifully and one or two badly exposed pieces to be beyond it.
How much does trim restoration cost in San Diego?
Trim restoration starts at $78. Vehicles with heavy body cladding — Jeeps, 4Runners, Broncos, most off-road trim packages — are quoted after inspection, because there is several times more trim on them than on a sedan.
The price follows the amount of trim, not the size of the vehicle. A large sedan with a few window surrounds and mirror caps is a smaller job than a mid-size SUV wrapped in fender flares, rocker cladding, bumper caps and roof rails.
Trim coating is already included in every Stealth Diamond Borograph and Liquid PPF package, where trim is one of the four coated surfaces alongside body, glass and wheels. If your trim is faded and you are considering a coating anyway, say so when you book and we will restore it as part of the prep.
How long does restored trim stay black?
A bonded coating lasts dramatically longer than a dressing — a dressing is measured in washes, a coating in seasons — but we do not publish a year figure, because NanoPro does not state one for this product and we are not going to invent it.
What we can tell you is what drives it: how much direct sun the vehicle lives in, whether it is parked outside or garaged, and how it is washed. A car that sits in full San Diego sun all day will need refreshing sooner than one under a carport.
Customers on our maintenance program get the trim checked and topped up as part of the monthly visit, which is the simplest way to keep it from creeping back.
Do you restore rubber seals and wiper arms too?
Yes. The same process covers door and window rubber seals, wiper arms and cowl panels, which fade for exactly the same reason as plastic cladding and are usually the pieces that give a clean car away.
Rubber seals are worth doing for more than looks. Dried out, chalky seals shrink and crack, and that is what starts wind noise and water leaks around doors and the sunroof. Keeping them conditioned is cheap compared with replacing them.
Window surrounds, grille surrounds, mirror caps, roof rails, bumper caps and rocker cladding all get done in the same visit. It is usually the combination that makes the difference — restoring the flares and leaving grey seals still reads as tired.